Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 1
Making Simple Patterns: Pattern Laying and Cutting Out
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Making Simple Patterns: Pattern Laying and Cutting Out
Download the Lessonotes Mobile Nigeria 2025 app for faster lesson access on Android and iPhone.
Subject: Clothing & Textiles
Class: Senior Secondary 1
Term: 3rd Term
Week: 4
Theme: Effective Garment Construction
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Prepare material and identify the grain Lay and cut out pattern pieces In terpret standard markings made on the patterns Transfer pattern markings unto the material Tack up garment for fitting.
This section provides detailed explanations of the core concepts related to pattern laying and cutting out, crucial for a comprehensive understanding. 2.
1. Preparing Material and Identifying the Grain Fabric Preparation: Shrinking/Pre-washing: Many fabrics, especially cottons (like Ankara, plain cottons, calico), viscose, and linen, tend to shrink when first washed. It is crucial to pre-wash and dry fabric in the same way the finished garment will be cared for. This prevents shrinkage after the garment is sewn, which could distort its fit. For fabrics that are dry-clean only or have minimal shrinkage (e.g., some synthetics), steaming or pressing can be sufficient.
Straightening the Grain: Fabric is woven with two sets of threads: warp (lengthwise) and weft (crosswise). Sometimes, during manufacturing or handling, the fabric becomes distorted or "off-grain." Cutting on distorted fabric will result in a garment that twists, sags, or doesn't hang properly.
Method 1 (Tearing): For firmly woven cottons, tear a small snip from the selvage edge and tear across the fabric. The torn edge will follow the crosswise grain.
Method 2 (Pulling a Thread): For fabrics that don't tear well, snip a thread near the selvage and gently pull it out across the fabric. The resulting gap marks the crosswise grain.
Method 3 (Stretching and Squaring): For fabrics that cannot be torn or have threads pulled, gently pull the fabric diagonally from opposite corners. This helps to square it up.
Pressing/Ironing: Once the fabric is pre-shrunk and straightened, it must be thoroughly pressed to remove all wrinkles and creases. A smooth, flat surface is essential for accurate pattern placement and cutting. Use the appropriate iron temperature for the fabric type.
Identifying the Fabric Grain: Understanding fabric grain is fundamental for a well-draped and durable garment.
Lengthwise Grain (Warp): These threads run parallel to the selvage (the finished edge of the fabric that prevents unraveling). This is the strongest grain, has the least stretch, and hangs longest without sagging. Most garment pieces are cut with the grainline marking parallel to the lengthwise grain.
Crosswise Grain (Weft): These threads run perpendicular to the selvage, from one selvage edge to the other. They have slightly more stretch than the lengthwise grain.
Bias Grain: Any diagonal line across the fabric. The true bias is at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grains. Fabric cut on the bias has the most stretch and creates a soft, fluid drape, often used for scarves, cowls, or garments requiring significant give.
Significance: Cutting accurately on grain ensures the garment hangs correctly, wears evenly, and maintains its shape over time. Cutting off-grain can lead to twisted seams, uneven hems, and general distortion. 2.
2. Laying and Cutting Out Pattern Pieces Pattern Laying Principles: Check Pattern Layout Diagram: Always refer to the pattern's layout diagram, which shows how to arrange pieces on different fabric widths and for different garment sizes. This diagram maximizes fabric efficiency and guides correct grain placement.
Fabric Fold: Observe whether the fabric needs to be folded lengthwise, crosswise, or opened flat. Some patterns require the fabric to be folded with selvages meeting, while others might be folded off-center.
Place on Fold Markings: Any pattern piece with a "place on fold" marking (a double-headed arrow touching an edge) must be placed precisely on a folded edge of the fabric. This ensures a symmetrical piece when unfolded.
Grainline Markings: A straight line with arrows at both ends indicates the grainline. This line must be exactly parallel to the selvage or the lengthwise fold of the fabric. Use a measuring tape to measure from each end of the grainline to the selvage/fold to ensure parallelism.
Nap/One-Way Designs: For fabrics with a nap (e.g., velvet, corduroy) or one-way prints (Ankara, some floral designs), all pattern pieces must be laid in the same direction to ensure a consistent appearance. Failure to do so can result in variations in colour or print direction. * Pinning: Securely pin pattern pieces to the fabric. Place pins perpendicular to the cutting line, about 10-15 cm apart, within the seam allowance area. Ensure the fabric lies smooth buttonholes, dots, pleats, etc.) must be transferred from the paper pattern to the fabric before removing the pattern pieces. Seam lines are usually not transferred unless specific accuracy is required (e.g., for very tailored garments).
Methods of Transferring Markings: Tailor's Tacks: This is an excellent method, especially for delicate fabrics or when transferring marks to both layers of a folded fabric. Using a contrasting thread, sew loose loops or crosses through the pattern and fabric layers at the marking points. When the pattern is removed and the fabric layers are gently pulled apart, the loops of thread remain, marking the spot on both sides. This is very common in Nigerian tailoring. Dressmaker's Carbon Paper and Tracing Wheel: Place dressmaker's carbon paper (waxed paper that transfers colour) between the pattern and the fabric. Use a tracing wheel to roll over the pattern markings (dots, lines). The wheel creates a dotted line on the fabric. Ensure the carbon paper matches the fabric colour (light carbon for dark fabric, dark carbon for light fabric) and test it on a scrap first.
Tailor's Chalk: A piece of chalk specifically designed for fabric. Markings are made directly onto the fabric after the pattern is removed, guided by notches or small snips. It can also be used with a tracing wheel (chalk wheel) over the pattern.
Temporary Fabric Markers/Pencils: Special pens or pencils whose marks disappear with heat, water, or over time. Use with caution and test on a scrap first to ensure complete removal.
Snips: Small snips (around 3mm deep) can be made into the seam allowance to mark notches. This is quick but should only be done within the seam allowance. 2.
5. Tack Up Garment for Fitting Tacking (also known as basting) is the process of temporarily stitching garment pieces together using hand stitches. This allows for a fitting session to check the garment's fit and make any necessary adjustments before permanent machine stitching.
Purpose of Tacking: Allows for garment fitting before permanent stitching. Provides a temporary hold, easy to remove for adjustments. Helps to check for proper drape and symmetry.
Tacking Process: Tools: Hand sewing needle, contrasting thread (easily visible and removable), pins.
Matching: Align corresponding pattern markings (notches, dots) and pin the fabric pieces together along the seam lines.
Stitch Type: Use a simple even basting stitch (running stitch with even length stitches and spaces, about 1-2 cm long) or uneven basting (longer stitches on top, shorter underneath). For specific areas like curved seams or sleeves, a diagonal basting stitch can provide more control.
Stitching: Stitch along the seam line (not the cutting line), typically 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) from the edge. Start with a knot and end with a backstitch or knot, but do not make it too secure to ensure easy removal.
Seam Allowances: Ensure seam allowances are consistent and even throughout the tacked seams.
Pressing: Lightly press the tacked seams open or to one side, as indicated by the pattern, to prepare for fitting.
Preparation for Fitting: Tack all major garment sections together (e.g., front bodice to back bodice at shoulder/side seams, skirts, sleeves). Leave closures (zippers, buttonholes) for later. --- measuring tape to measure from each end of the grainline to the selvage/fold to ensure parallelism.
Nap/One-Way Designs: For fabrics with a nap (e.g., velvet, corduroy) or one-way prints (Ankara, some floral designs), all pattern pieces must be laid in the same direction to ensure a consistent appearance. Failure to do so can result in variations in colour or print direction.
Pinning: Securely pin pattern pieces to the fabric. Place pins perpendicular to the cutting line, about 10-15 cm apart, within the seam allowance area. Ensure the fabric lies smooth and flat, without puckering or stretching.
Efficient Layout: Arrange larger pieces first, then fit smaller pieces into the remaining spaces to minimize fabric waste.
Cutting Out Techniques: Tools: Sharp fabric shears (dressmaker's scissors) are essential. Rotary cutters can also be used, but shears are more common and versatile in classroom settings. Never use fabric shears for paper to avoid dulling them.
Stable Surface: Cut on a flat, stable surface, like a large table.
Body Position: Stand or sit comfortably, ensuring you can see the cutting line clearly.
Cutting Action: Use long, smooth, even strokes. Keep the lower blade of the shears flat against the table surface, lifting the fabric as little as possible. This prevents the fabric from shifting and distorting.
Accuracy: Cut precisely on the cutting lines (usually the outermost line on the pattern). Do not cut inside or outside the line.
Notches: Cut notches outwards, as small triangles, or as small snips inwards (less common in commercial patterns due to weakening fabric edge), depending on preference and fabric type. Notches are crucial for matching garment pieces later. 2.
3. Interpreting Standard Markings Made on Patterns Pattern markings are a language for garment construction. Understanding them is vital.
Grainline Arrow: A long line with an arrow at both ends. Indicates that this line must be placed parallel to the fabric's lengthwise grain (selvage or lengthwise fold).
Place on Fold Line: A double-headed arrow pointing towards an edge, often with a bent line or text "Place on Fold." This edge of the pattern piece must be placed directly on a folded edge of the fabric, ensuring a symmetrical piece when unfolded.
Cutting Line: The outermost solid line of a pattern piece. This is where the fabric is cut.
Stitching Line (Seam Line): Often a dashed or dotted line, typically 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) inside the cutting line. This is where the stitching will be made. The space between the cutting line and the stitching line is the seam allowance.
Notches: Small diamond, triangle, or single/double/triple line markings on the cutting line. Used for matching corresponding pattern pieces during assembly (e.g., matching front and back bodice pieces).
Dots/Circles/Squares: Small shapes placed on the pattern indicating specific points for matching seams, placing pockets, attaching sleeves, marking dart points, or positioning other garment details.
Darts: V-shaped or diamond-shaped lines with a dot or circle at the point. Used to shape flat fabric to fit body curves. The lines indicate where the dart will be folded and stitched.
Buttonhole Markings: Rectangular or "I" shaped lines indicating the placement and length of buttonholes.
Pocket Placement Lines: Lines indicating where a pocket should be sewn onto the garment.
Hemline Markings: Lines indicating the fold line and cutting line for the garment's hem.
Lengthen/Shorten Lines: Two parallel lines on the pattern, usually with arrows, indicating where to adjust the pattern for different body heights. 2.
4. Transferring Pattern Markings Unto the Material All essential markings (darts, pocket placements, buttonholes, dots, pleats, etc.) must be transferred from the paper pattern to the fabric before removing the pattern pieces. Seam lines are usually not transferred unless specific accuracy is required (e.g., for very tailored garments).
Methods of Transferring Markings: * Tailor's Tacks: This is an excellent method, especially for delicate fabrics or when transferring marks to both layers of a folded fabric. Using a contrasting thread, sew loose loops or crosses through the pattern and fabric layers at the marking points. When the pattern is removed and the fabric layers are Materials: Fabric scraps (calico, plain cotton, Ankara prints, varying sizes for practice) Simple paper patterns (e.g., bodice block, simple skirt panel, sleeve block – commercial patterns or teacher-made) Fabric shears, pins, measuring tape, tailor’s chalk, tracing wheel, dressmaker’s carbon paper (various colours) Hand sewing needles, contrasting sewing thread Iron and ironing board Mannequin or dress form (if available)
Teacher Activities: Introduction (5 minutes): Briefly review the importance of accuracy in sewing, linking it to the topic of pattern laying and cutting.
Demonstration: Fabric Preparation (15 minutes): Teacher demonstrates pre-washing/steaming fabric (explain the concept even if not doing full pre-wash). Teacher demonstrates how to straighten the grain using tearing or pulling a thread on a piece of calico/cotton. Teacher demonstrates how to press the fabric to remove wrinkles.
Demonstration: Identifying Grain (10 minutes): Teacher shows lengthwise, crosswise, and bias grain on different fabric samples (e.g., Ankara, plain cotton). Teacher explains the properties and importance of each grain.
Demonstration: Pattern Laying (20 minutes): Using a large piece of fabric (e.g., half yard calico) and a simple pattern piece (e.g., bodice front), the teacher demonstrates: Interpreting layout diagrams (show a simple diagram). Folding fabric correctly (lengthwise, on-grain). Placing the "place on fold" edge precisely on the fold. Aligning the grainline parallel to the selvage/fold using a measuring tape at two points. Pinning the pattern smoothly and securely. Discuss considerations for one-way designs (Ankara).
Demonstration: Cutting Out (15 minutes): Teacher demonstrates correct use of fabric shears: long, smooth strokes, keeping the lower blade on the table. Demonstrates cutting accurately on the cutting line. Demonstrates how to cut notches (outward triangles).
Demonstration: Interpreting and Transferring Markings (20 minutes): Teacher displays a pattern piece with various markings (notches, dots, darts, grainline, place on fold). Teacher explains each marking's meaning. Teacher demonstrates transferring markings using: Tailor's tacks (on a folded fabric). Dressmaker's carbon paper and tracing wheel (on a single layer of fabric). Tailor's chalk.
Demonstration: Tacking Up for Fitting (15 minutes): Using two previously cut fabric pieces (e.g., front and back bodice), the teacher demonstrates: Aligning notches and markings. Pinning pieces together along the seam line. Performing an even basting stitch along the seam line. Explaining the purpose of tacking for fitting.
Recap and Q&A (5 minutes): Review key steps and answer student questions.
Student Activities: Fabric Preparation Practice (15 minutes): Students work in pairs or individually with fabric scraps to practice: Straightening the grain (tearing or pulling a thread). Pressing the fabric. Identifying lengthwise, crosswise, and bias grain on various fabric samples. Pattern Laying and Pinning Practice (20 minutes): Each student receives a small fabric piece and a simple pattern piece (e.g., half-bodice or skirt panel). Students practice folding fabric, aligning the grainline, placing the "place on fold" edge, and pinning the pattern piece securely.
Cutting Out Practice (15 minutes): Students use their pinned pattern pieces to practice cutting accurately on the cutting lines and cutting notches.
Marking Transfer Practice (20 minutes): Students practice transferring various markings (dots, darts, notches) from their pattern pieces to their fabric using tailor's tacks and/or dressmaker's carbon and tracing wheel.
Tacking Practice (20 minutes): Students work with two cut and marked fabric pieces (e.g., two bodice fronts, two skirt panels) to practice: Aligning markings (notches, dots). Pinning the pieces together. Tacking them along the seam lines using an even basting stitch. Teacher observes and provides individual feedback. ---
Entrepreneurship in Fashion and Tailoring: The skills of pattern laying and cutting are the bedrock of any fashion business in Nigeria, from the small community tailor's shop to large-scale garment production units in urban centers. Learners who master these techniques can efficiently use fabric, minimize waste, and produce high-quality garments for sale, supporting themselves and contributing to the local economy. For example, a student could start by making simple dresses or shirts from Ankara fabric for their neighbours or schoolmates, using these precise methods. Cost-Effective Personal and Family Garment Production: Knowing how to accurately lay and cut patterns enables individuals and families to sew their own clothing, school uniforms, and traditional wear (buba, iro, dashiki components) at a fraction of the cost of buying ready-made clothes. This skill promotes self-sufficiency and resourcefulness, which is particularly valuable in Nigeria's economic climate. It also allows for customization to achieve a perfect fit and preferred styles, a common practice in Nigerian households. Quality Assurance and Informed Consumerism: Understanding proper pattern handling, grainline, and cutting techniques allows learners to evaluate the quality of purchased garments. They can identify poorly cut garments that might twist, sag, or wear out quickly due to being cut off-grain. This knowledge empowers them to be more discerning consumers, demanding better quality from manufacturers and local tailors, thereby contributing to higher standards in the Nigerian garment industry. ---