Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 1
Facing & interfacing
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Facing & interfacing
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Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 1
Term: 3rd Term
Week: 5
Theme: Basic Sewing Processes
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Students should beable to list types of Facings. state the functions of Facings. identify differenttypes of In terfacings. at tach Facingsproperly.
and back neckline facings), sew them together at the shoulder/side seams, matching seam lines. Press seams open.
3. Attach to Garment: Place the facing on the garment, right sides together, aligning raw edges (e.g., neckline, armhole). Pin thoroughly.
4. Stitch: Sew along the designated seam line (e.g., 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch seam allowance).
5. Trim and Clip/Notch: Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk (e.g., 0.6 cm or 1/4 inch). For curves, clip into the seam allowance on concave curves (like necklines) or notch out triangles on convex curves (like outer corners) to allow the facing to lie flat.
6. Understitch: Press the seam allowance towards the facing. Stitch through the facing and the seam allowance close to the seam line (about 0.3 cm or 1/8 inch). This helps the facing roll to the inside and stay hidden.
7. Press and Secure: Turn the facing to the inside of the garment. Press neatly. Secure the facing to the garment at seam allowances (e.g., shoulder seams, side seams) with small hand stitches or tacking stitches to prevent it from flapping or rolling out. B. INTERFACING Interfacing is a material applied to the wrong side of fabric to give it body, support, and stability. It helps parts of a garment retain their shape, prevents stretching, and adds crispness.
Functions of Interfacing: Adding Body and Support: Gives substance to areas like collars, cuffs, and waistbands, making them stand up or hold their shape.
Preventing Stretching: Stabilizes fabric, especially at stress points like buttonholes, necklines, and pockets.
Improving Drape: Can enhance the way a fabric hangs or falls in certain areas.
Preventing Wrinkling: Can make fabric less prone to creasing in specific sections.
Reinforcement: Strengthens areas that receive wear, such as button plackets or pocket openings.
Types of Interfacings: Interfacings are broadly categorised by their application method (fusible or non-fusible) and by their construction (woven, non-woven, knit).
I. By Application Method:
1. Fusible Interfacing: Description: Has a heat-sensitive adhesive coating on one side. It is applied by pressing it onto the fabric with a warm iron, causing the adhesive to melt and bond permanently to the fabric.
Characteristics: Saves time, provides a smooth, consistent bond. Available in various weights (light, medium, heavy) and constructions.
Uses: Widely used for collars, cuffs, waistbands, facings, plackets, lapels, and buttonhole areas in shirts, dresses, trousers, and jackets. For example, stiffening the collar of a Senator style shirt or an Agbada.
Application Principles:
1. Place the fusible side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the garment fabric.
2. Cover with a damp pressing cloth (optional, but recommended for even heat distribution and steam).
3. Press with a hot iron, holding for 10-15 seconds in each spot, overlapping slightly. Do not slide the iron.
4. Allow to cool completely before handling to ensure a strong bond.
2. Non-Fusible (Sew-in)
Interfacing: Description: Does not have an adhesive coating. It is basted or sewn into the garment fabric along the seam lines.
Characteristics: Offers more flexibility and a softer drape than fusible interfacing. It is preferred for delicate fabrics (e.g., silk, chiffon) that might be damaged by heat or for heavily textured fabrics where fusible interfacing might not adhere well.
Uses: Traditional tailoring, delicate fabrics, areas requiring a softer finish (e.g., structured dresses, coats, lightweight blouses).
Application Principles:
1. Cut the non-fusible interfacing to match the garment piece.
2. Place it on the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Baste or pin it in place within the seam allowance, or hand-stitch it with small catch stitches to the fabric.
4. Proceed with garment construction, treating the interfaced piece as one. I
I. By Construction Type:
1. Woven Interfacing: Description: Made from woven threads, similar to regular fabric. It has a distinct grainline (warp and weft).
Characteristics: Provides excellent stability and crispness. Needs to be cut on the same grainline as the garment fabric to prevent distortion.
Uses: Collars, cuffs, waistbands, button plackets, and general shaping for structured garments.
Examples: Hair canvas (a heavier type for tailoring), cotton interfacings.
2. Non-Woven Interfacing: Description: Made from to the fabric.
4. Proceed with garment construction, treating the interfaced piece as one. I
I. By Construction Type:
1. Woven Interfacing: Description: Made from woven threads, similar to regular fabric. It has a distinct grainline (warp and weft).
Characteristics: Provides excellent stability and crispness. Needs to be cut on the same grainline as the garment fabric to prevent distortion.
Uses: Collars, cuffs, waistbands, button plackets, and general shaping for structured garments.
Examples: Hair canvas (a heavier type for tailoring), cotton interfacings.
2. Non-Woven Interfacing: Description: Made from fibres that are pressed and bonded together, not woven. It does not have a grainline, making it easy to cut in any direction.
Characteristics: Less expensive, easy to use, does not fray. Can sometimes feel stiffer or less natural than woven.
Uses: General support, quick projects, often used in craft projects or areas where grainline matching is not critical.
Examples: Pellon (a common brand name) in various weights.
3. Knit Interfacing: Description: Made from knitted fibres, giving it stretch and flexibility.
Characteristics: Ideal for knit fabrics as it stretches with the fabric, maintaining the garment's natural elasticity. Prevents puckering when sewn onto stretchy fabrics.
Uses: Necklines, facings, and other areas of knit garments (e.g., jersey tops, stretch dresses) where stability is needed without sacrificing stretch.
Examples: Fusible tricot interfacing.
Selecting the Right Interfacing: Fabric Weight: Choose an interfacing that is slightly lighter or the same weight as the garment fabric. A heavier interfacing can make the garment look stiff and unnatural.
Fabric Type: Consider whether the fabric is woven, knit, or delicate.
Desired Effect: Determine the level of stiffness, crispness, or drape required for the garment area.
Care Instructions: Ensure the interfacing's care instructions are compatible with the garment fabric. This section provides a detailed explanation of facings and interfacings, their types, functions, and application methods. A. FACING A facing is a piece of fabric, separate from the main garment, used to finish a raw edge, such as a neckline, armhole, or opening. It provides a neat, clean, and durable finish that is usually hidden on the inside of the garment. Facings also help to add slight stiffness or support to the edge.
Functions of Facings: Neatening raw edges: It encases the raw edge, preventing fraying and giving a clean appearance.
Adding strength and durability: It reinforces the edge, making it stronger and less prone to stretching or tearing.
Providing shape and support: It helps a garment maintain its shape, particularly around necklines and armholes.
As a design feature: Though usually hidden, facings can sometimes be used as a decorative element or to add contrasting colour/texture when intentionally exposed.
Preventing stretching: Especially on curved edges, a properly applied facing can help to stabilise the fabric.
Types of Facings:
1. Shaped/Fitted Facing: Description: This type of facing is cut to precisely match the shape of the garment edge it will finish (e.g., a curved neckline or armhole). It is typically about 5-7.5 cm (2-3 inches) wide.
Characteristics: It is cut on the same grainline as the garment piece it mirrors. It offers a very neat and smooth finish as it lies flat against the garment.
Uses: Commonly used for necklines (round, V-neck, square), armholes, and sometimes waistlines of skirts or trousers. For example, the neckline of an Ankara blouse or a fitted dress.
Application Principles: Sewed to the raw edge, trimmed, clipped/notched, understitched, and pressed to the inside.
2. Extended Facing: Description: This facing is an extension of the garment piece itself, meaning it is cut in one piece with the garment, then folded over to the inside. There is no seam line at the edge where the facing meets the garment.
Characteristics: It saves fabric and sewing time as it eliminates a seam. It is suitable for straight or slightly curved edges.
Uses: Often found on fronts of shirts (plackets), open necklines, or front edges of jackets and coats. For instance, the front opening of a shirt or a wrapper blouse.
Application Principles: The extended part is simply folded back, right sides together, and stitched to the garment's other edges, then trimmed and pressed.
3. Bias Facing: Description: This facing is a narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias grain (45-degree angle to the selvage). Cutting on the bias allows the fabric to stretch and conform smoothly to curves.
Characteristics: It is very flexible and adaptable, making it ideal for finishing complex curves or edges where a shaped facing would be difficult to fit. It uses less fabric than a shaped facing.
Uses: Excellent for finishing tight curves, V-necks, or armholes where a shaped facing might cause bulk or pulling. It's often used when there isn't enough matching fabric for a shaped facing, or for lightweight fabrics. For example, the armhole of a sleeveless dress or a child's garment. * Application Principles: The bias strip is stitched to the raw edge, trimmed, pressed, and then usually folded over twice to the inside and topstitched or hand-stitched in place. Steps for Attaching a Shaped Facing (General Guide):
1. Prepare Facing: Cut facing piece(s) accurately. Finish the outer edge of the facing (e.g., zigzag stitch, serge, turn and stitch) to prevent fraying.
2. Join Facing Pieces: If the facing is in multiple pieces (e.g., front and back neckline facings), sew them together at the shoulder/side seams, matching seam lines. Press seams open.
3. Attach to Garment: Place the facing on the garment, right sides together, aligning raw edges (e.g., neckline, armhole). Pin thoroughly.
4. Stitch: Sew along the designated seam line (e.g., 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch seam allowance).
5. Trim and Clip/Notch: Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk (e.g., 0.6 cm or 1/4 inch). For curves, clip into the seam allowance on concave curves (like necklines) or notch out triangles on convex curves (like outer
A. Teacher Activities: Introduction (10 minutes): Initiate a brief review of previous knowledge on garment construction essentials like seam finishes and hems. Display various garment samples (e.g., shirts, blouses, dresses, traditional wear like a well-finished Agbada collar or Ankara neckline) – some with well-executed facings/interfacings and some with poorly finished edges or limp collars. Guide students to observe the differences in finish, structure, and durability. Introduce the terms "Facing" and "Interfacing" as the techniques used to achieve the professional look observed. State the learning objectives for the lesson clearly.
Explanation of Key Concepts (20 minutes): Clearly define "Facing" and "Interfacing" using simple language and practical examples from the displayed garments. Systematically explain the "Functions of Facings" and "Functions of Interfacing" with visual aids.
For Facings: Describe and show examples of Shaped/Fitted Facing (e.g., on a neckline template or a pattern piece). Describe and show examples of Extended Facing (e.g., a shirt placket or simple blouse opening). Describe and demonstrate how to cut a Bias Facing strip from a fabric scrap. Discuss the appropriate uses for each type, relating them to Nigerian garments (e.g., Ankara tops, traditional shirts).
For Interfacings: Present samples of different types of interfacings (fusible woven, fusible non-woven, non-fusible sew-in). Explain the difference between Fusible and Non-fusible by demonstrating the application process for each.
Explain the construction types: Woven, Non-woven, and Knit interfacings, highlighting their characteristics and uses. Guide students on how to select the appropriate interfacing for different fabrics and garment parts.
Demonstration of Application (30 minutes): Demonstrate Attaching a Shaped Facing: Using two pre-cut fabric scraps (e.g., simple garment bodice front with a curved neckline and its matching shaped facing), demonstrate step-by-step: Finishing the outer edge of the facing. Pinning the facing to the garment (right sides together). Stitching the seam. Trimming, clipping/notching the seam allowance. Understitching. Pressing the facing to the inside. Tacking/securing the facing. Emphasize correct pressing techniques.
Demonstrate Applying Fusible Interfacing: Using a fabric scrap and a piece of fusible interfacing, demonstrate: Placing fusible side down on the wrong side of the fabric. Using a pressing cloth (if available). Applying heat with an iron (do not slide, lift and press). Allowing it to cool for proper bonding. Demonstrate Applying Non-Fusible Interfacing: Using a fabric scrap and non-fusible interfacing, demonstrate: Placing it on the wrong side of the fabric. Basting it within the seam allowance or using small hand stitches to secure. Practical Application & Supervision (45 minutes): Distribute pre-cut fabric scraps (preferably calico or similar fabric) for shaped facings and various interfacing samples to each student or group.
Provide tools: sewing machines (if available and students are proficient), needles, threads, irons, pressing cloths, scissors, pins.
Instruct students to practice: Attaching a shaped facing to a curved edge specimen. Applying fusible interfacing to a fabric scrap. Applying non-fusible interfacing to a fabric scrap. Circulate among students, providing individual guidance, correcting errors, and answering questions. Emphasize safety with sewing machines and irons.
Review and Q&A (10 minutes): Lead a brief recap of the day's lesson, asking probing questions. Address any lingering questions or misconceptions.
B. Student Activities: Observation: Students will observe the displayed garment samples and the teacher's demonstrations attentively.
Participation: Students will engage in discussions, answer questions, and ask clarifying questions during explanations.
Practical Work: Students will practice cutting a bias strip from a fabric scrap. Students will meticulously practice attaching a shaped facing to a pre-cut fabric specimen, following the demonstrated steps. Students will apply fusible interfacing to a fabric scrap using an iron. Students will apply non-fusible interfacing to a fabric scrap, basting it in place.
Critical Thinking: Students will identify different types of facings and interfacings based on samples and explanations.
Note-taking: Students will take notes on definitions, types, functions, and application steps.
Entrepreneurship and Local Tailoring Businesses: Students can apply the knowledge of facings and interfacings to produce high-quality garments for sale. In Nigeria, there's a significant market for bespoke tailoring, traditional attire (e.g., Agbada, Senator styles, Ankara outfits), and ready-to-wear clothing. Properly applied facings and interfacings enhance the professional finish, durability, and value of these garments, allowing students to start or contribute to successful tailoring or fashion design ventures. A well-interfaced collar on a male native shirt, for example, commands respect and higher prices in the market.
Maintenance and Repair of Clothing: Understanding facings and interfacings helps individuals appreciate the construction of their clothes. It empowers them to perform minor repairs, such as re-attaching a loose facing or replacing worn interfacing in a collar or cuff, extending the life of garments and promoting sustainable practices. This is particularly relevant in Nigerian households where clothing items are often repaired rather than discarded.
Fashion Design and Textile Innovation: For students aspiring to be fashion designers, knowledge of facings and interfacings is crucial for conceptualising and creating structured or fluid designs. It allows them to experiment with different fabric weights and support materials to achieve desired silhouettes and drapes. For example, using a stiff interfacing to create exaggerated collars or sleeves in contemporary African fashion designs, or a soft, knit interfacing to maintain the flow of a delicate chiffon dress. This skill set is vital for innovation in the Nigerian fashion industry.