Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 2
Drafting of shirt block
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Drafting of shirt block
Download the Lessonotes Mobile Nigeria 2025 app for faster lesson access on Android and iPhone.
Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 2
Term: 1st Term
Week: 4
Theme: Pattern Drafting 1
This page supports the lesson note with a companion video and a short classroom-ready summary.
For class groups and homework, share this lesson page so learners also get the summary, objectives, and full lesson context.
Students should beable to identify the bodyparts to be measured. draft the front and back bodice blocks.
This section provides a detailed explanation of the necessary measurements and the step-by-step process for drafting a basic shirt block (front and back).
A. Essential Tools and Materials: Pattern paper: Large enough to accommodate the block (e.g., brown paper, newspaper).
Pencil and eraser: For drawing and correcting lines.
Measuring tape: Flexible tape for taking body measurements. Ruler (straight and L-square/pattern master): For drawing straight lines and right angles.
French curve or hip curve: For shaping armholes and necklines.
Scissors: For cutting out the drafted pattern.
Tracing wheel (optional): For transferring markings.
B. Key Body Measurements for Drafting a Shirt Block: Accurate measurements are the foundation of good pattern drafting. The teacher should emphasize the importance of taking these measurements precisely. | S/N | Measurement | How to Measure | | :-- | :------------------------ | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | 1. | Full Length (FL) | From the prominent bone at the base of the neck (back) or the side of the neck at the shoulder point (front) down to the desired shirt hem length. Typically, for a block, it's to the waist or hip level. | | 2. | Shoulder to Waist (SW)| From the prominent bone at the base of the neck (back) or the side of the neck at the shoulder point (front) down to the natural waistline. | | 3. | Bust/Chest Circumference (B/CC) | Around the fullest part of the bust/chest, ensuring the tape is level all around. | | 4. | Waist Circumference (WC) | Around the natural waistline (the narrowest part of the torso). | | 5. | Hip Circumference (HC) | Around the fullest part of the hip, ensuring the tape is level. | | 6. | Shoulder Width (SWd) | From one shoulder point to the other, across the back. | | 7. | Back Width (BWd) | From armhole crease to armhole crease across the back, about 4-6 inches down from the base of the neck. | | 8. | Across Chest (AC) | From armhole crease to armhole crease across the front, above the bust. | | 9. | Neck Circumference (NC) | Around the base of the neck, comfortably. | | 10. | Armhole Depth (AD) | From the prominent bone at the base of the neck (back) straight down to an imaginary line level with the base of the armpit. Alternatively, measure from the shoulder point to the armpit. |
C. Understanding Ease: Ease is the additional measurement added to body measurements to allow for movement, comfort, and the garment style. For a basic shirt block, the following ease is typical: Chest/Bust: 2 - 4 inches (5 - 10 cm) total, distributed over the block (e.g., 0.5 - 1 inch per quarter).
Waist/Hip: 1 - 2 inches (2.5 - 5 cm) total, depending on desired looseness.
Neckline: Slight ease, often built into the standard drafting measurements. D. Drafting the Basic Front Bodice Block (Shirt Block) (Using hypothetical measurements for demonstration: FL=24", SW=16", B/CC=36", WC=30", HC=40", SWd=15", BWd=14", AC=13", NC=14", AD=8")
Step 1: Draw the Basic Construction Lines
1. Draw a vertical line (A-B) near the left edge of the pattern paper. This is the Center Front (CF) line. A represents the Neck Point. B represents the Hem Line.
2. From point A, draw a horizontal line extending to the right. This is the Neckline Guide.
3. From point A, measure down: A to C: Armhole Depth (AD) + 0.5" ease (8" + 0.5" = 8.5"). Draw a horizontal line from C to the right. This is the Chest Line.
A to D: Shoulder to Waist (SW) (16"). Draw a horizontal line from D to the right. This is the Waist Line.
A to E: Full Length (FL) (24"). Draw a horizontal line from E to the right. This is the Hem Line. (
Note: B and E might be the same point if FL is measured from A).
Step 2: Establish Widths
1. Chest/Bust Width: On the Chest Line (C), measure C to F: (B/CC + Ease) /
4. Example: (36" + 3" ease) / 4 = Chest Line.
A to D: Shoulder to Waist (SW) (16"). Draw a horizontal line from D to the right. This is the Waist Line.
A to E: Full Length (FL) (24"). Draw a horizontal line from E to the right. This is the Hem Line. (
Note: B and E might be the same point if FL is measured from A).
Step 2: Establish Widths
1. Chest/Bust Width: On the Chest Line (C), measure C to F: (B/CC + Ease) /
4. Example: (36" + 3" ease) / 4 = 39" / 4 = 9.75". Mark point F.
2. Waist Width: On the Waist Line (D), measure D to G: (WC + Ease) /
4. Example: (30" + 2" ease) / 4 = 32" / 4 = 8". Mark point G.
3. Hip Width (if drafting to hip): On the Hem Line (E), measure E to H: (HC + Ease) /
4. Example: (40" + 2" ease) / 4 = 42" / 4 = 10.5". Mark point H.
4. Draw a vertical line connecting F, G, and
H. This is the Side Seam line.
Step 3: Draft the Neckline
1. From point A (Neck Point), measure horizontally A to I: (NC / 6) + 0.25" (ease).
Example: (14" / 6) + 0.25" = 2.33" + 0.25" = 2.58" (approx 2 5/8"). Mark point I.
2. From point A, measure vertically down A to J: (NC / 6) - 0.25" (for a standard shirt neckline, front drop is usually slightly less than width).
Example: (14" / 6) - 0.25" = 2.33" - 0.25" = 2.08" (approx 2 1/8"). Mark point J.
3. Using a French curve, connect points I and J to form the front neckline.
Step 4: Draft the Shoulder Line
1. From point A, measure down 1.5" - 2" (3.8 - 5 cm) vertically. This is a standard shoulder slope guide, mark as K.
2. From point I (neck width), measure diagonally to intersect the vertical line from K at a point L such that I to L = (Shoulder Width / 2).
Example: (15" / 2) = 7.5". Find L on the shoulder slope line. This forms the shoulder seam.
Step 5: Draft the Armhole
1. From L, draw a vertical line downwards towards the Chest Line.
2. From F, measure in 0.5" - 0.75" (1.25 - 2 cm) towards CF, mark as F'. This creates a slight curve for the side seam at the armhole.
3. From L, use a French curve to connect to the Chest Line at F', curving through the point where the vertical line from L meets the Across Chest measurement line (which would be (AC/2) from CF, typically around C. This point helps guide the armhole curve. For a basic block, connect L to the Chest line at F' with a smooth curve. Ensure the curve passes through the midpoint between L and F'.
Step 6: Draw Side Seam and Hem
1. Connect F' to G, and G to H (or E if only to waist) with a slight curve if needed, typically straight for a basic shirt block.
2. Draw the hem line from H to E. E. Drafting the Basic Back Bodice Block (Shirt Block) The back block is drafted similarly but with different neckline and armhole shapes.
Step 1: Draw the Basic Construction Lines
1. Draw a vertical line (A-B) near the left edge of the pattern paper. This is the Center Back (CB) line. A represents the Neck Point (at CB). B represents the Hem Line.
2. From point A, draw a horizontal line extending to the right. This is the Neckline Guide.
3. From point A, measure down: A to C: Armhole Depth (AD) + 0.5" ease (8" + 0.5" = 8.5"). Draw a horizontal line from C to the right. This is the Chest Line.
A to D: Shoulder to Waist (SW) (16"). Draw a horizontal line from D to the right. This is the Waist Line. * A to E: Full Length (FL) (24"). Draw a horizontal line from E to the right. This is the A, draw a horizontal line extending to the right. This is the Neckline Guide.
3. From point A, measure down: A to C: Armhole Depth (AD) + 0.5" ease (8" + 0.5" = 8.5"). Draw a horizontal line from C to the right. This is the Chest Line.
A to D: Shoulder to Waist (SW) (16"). Draw a horizontal line from D to the right. This is the Waist Line.
A to E: Full Length (FL) (24"). Draw a horizontal line from E to the right. This is the Hem Line. (
Note: B and E might be the same point).
Step 2: Establish Widths
1. Chest/Bust Width: On the Chest Line (C), measure C to F: (B/CC + Ease) /
4. Example: (36" + 3" ease) / 4 = 39" / 4 = 9.75". Mark point F.
2. Waist Width: On the Waist Line (D), measure D to G: (WC + Ease) /
4. Example: (30" + 2" ease) / 4 = 32" / 4 = 8". Mark point G.
3. Hip Width: On the Hem Line (E), measure E to H: (HC + Ease) /
4. Example: (40" + 2" ease) / 4 = 42" / 4 = 10.5". Mark point H.
4. Draw a vertical line connecting F, G, and
H. This is the Side Seam line.
Step 3: Draft the Neckline
1. From point A (Neck Point at CB), measure horizontally A to I: (NC / 6) + 0.25" (ease).
Example: (14" / 6) + 0.25" = 2.58" (approx 2 5/8"). Mark point I.
2. From point A, measure vertically down A to J: 0.75" - 1" (1.9 - 2.5 cm) for a standard back neckline drop. Mark point J.
3. Using a French curve or freehand, connect points I and J to form the back neckline, ensuring it is perpendicular to the CB line at
J. Step 4: Draft the Shoulder Line
1. From point A, measure down 1" - 1.5" (2.5 - 3.8 cm) vertically. This is the back shoulder slope guide, mark as K.
2. From point I (neck width), measure diagonally to intersect the vertical line from K at a point L such that I to L = (Shoulder Width / 2).
Example: (15" / 2) = 7.5". Find L on the shoulder slope line. This forms the shoulder seam.
Step 5: Draft the Armhole
1. From L, draw a vertical line downwards towards the Chest Line.
2. From F, measure in 0.25" - 0.5" (0.6 - 1.25 cm) towards CB, mark as F'. This creates a slight curve for the side seam at the armhole.
3. From L, use a French curve to connect to the Chest Line at F', curving through the point where the vertical line from L meets the Back Width measurement line (which would be (BWd/2) from CB, typically around C. This point helps guide the armhole curve. For a basic block, connect L to the Chest line at F' with a smooth curve. Ensure the curve passes through the midpoint between L and F'.
Step 6: Draw Side Seam and Hem
1. Connect F' to G, and G to H (or E if only to waist) with a slight curve if needed, typically straight for a basic shirt block.
2. Draw the hem line from H to E. (Teacher should emphasize that the side seams (F-G-H or F'-G-H) of the front and back blocks should match in length and shape.)
Teacher Activities: Introduction (10 minutes): Teacher displays various shirt styles (pictures or actual garments) and discusses how they are made, introducing the concept of patterns. Teacher explains the importance of accurate measurements and pattern drafting in achieving a good fit and professional finish.
Teacher introduces the specific topic: Drafting of a Shirt Block. Identification of Tools and Materials (15 minutes): Teacher displays and names all essential tools and materials (measuring tape, rulers, curves, pattern paper, pencil, etc.). Teacher explains the function of each tool and proper handling/safety. Demonstration of Body Measurement (20 minutes): Teacher uses a volunteer student or a dress form to demonstrate how to take each required body measurement for a shirt block, explaining where each measurement starts and ends, and the correct posture. Teacher explains the concept of "ease" and its application. Demonstration of Pattern Drafting (40 minutes): Teacher performs a live, step-by-step demonstration of drafting the Front Bodice Block on a large piece of pattern paper (e.g., flip chart paper or blackboard covered with paper), using a set of hypothetical measurements. Teacher clearly labels all lines and points as they are drawn, explaining the formula for each calculation (e.g., Bust/4 + ease). Teacher then repeats the demonstration for the Back Bodice Block, highlighting differences. Teacher emphasizes the use of an L-square for right angles and French curve for shaping.
Guided Practice Supervision (30 minutes): Teacher moves around the classroom, providing individual guidance and feedback as students begin drafting. Teacher checks for correct measurement application, line accuracy, and curve formation.
Review and Q&A (10 minutes): Teacher facilitates a quick review of the key steps and calculations. Teacher answers student questions and clarifies any misconceptions.
Student Activities: Active Listening and Observation: Students pay close attention during the teacher's explanations and demonstrations of measurement and drafting.
Note-Taking: Students record key measurements, formulas, and drafting steps in their notebooks.
Measurement Practice (Group Work): In pairs or small groups, students practice taking each other's measurements, using the teacher's demonstration as a guide. They record these measurements.
Drafting Practice: Students, working individually or in pairs, begin to draft their own front and back shirt blocks on pattern paper, following the teacher's demonstrated steps and using either their own measurements or a provided set of measurements.
Peer Review: Students can briefly compare their drafted patterns with a partner, identifying similarities and differences, under teacher supervision.
Q&A: Students ask questions for clarification during and after the demonstrations.
Tailoring and Fashion Entrepreneurship: The ability to draft a shirt block is a fundamental skill for aspiring tailors, fashion designers, and garment makers in Nigeria. It allows individuals to create custom-fit shirts, blouses, and dresses for clients, leading to self-employment and income generation within local communities, especially in areas where bespoke tailoring is highly valued. Students can start small businesses from home or open their own workshops. Customisation and Adaptation of Ready-to-Wear: With pattern drafting skills, individuals can modify existing patterns or ready-to-wear garments to achieve a better fit or a desired style. For example, adjusting the shoulder width or armhole depth of a store-bought shirt to fit a unique Nigerian body shape, thus extending the usability and value of clothing. This promotes sustainability by reducing the need to discard ill-fitting clothes. Foundation for Advanced Garment Construction: The shirt block serves as a basic foundation. From this block, students can learn to draft various other garment components like collars, sleeves, cuffs, and even adapt it for different styles of tops and dresses. This skill is critical for progression into more complex garment design and production, fostering innovation in the Nigerian fashion industry.