Lesson Notes By Weeks and Term v3 - Senior Secondary 2
Drafting of basic sleeve block
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Drafting of basic sleeve block
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Subject: Garment Making
Class: Senior Secondary 2
Term: 1st Term
Week: 5
Theme: Pattern Drafting 1
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Students should beable to enumerate the bodyparts to be measuredfor drafting the sleeveblock. draft the sleeveblock..
points. From the point closest to E (the 3/4 mark), measure up by approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From the point closest to A (the 1/4 mark), measure down by approximately 0.5 - 1 cm. Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from A through the 1/4 mark (dipping slightly) then rising through the 3/4 mark (bulging slightly) to meet point
E. For the Front Sleeve Cap (Left side, from A to D): Divide the line AD into four equal parts. Mark these points. From the point closest to D (the 3/4 mark), measure up by approximately 1 cm. From the point closest to A (the 1/4 mark), measure down by approximately 1 cm. Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from A through the 1/4 mark (dipping slightly) then rising through the 3/4 mark (bulging slightly) to meet point
D. Note: The front curve is generally flatter and less curved than the back curve to accommodate the front of the armhole.
7. Final Touches: Clearly label the front and back of the sleeve cap. Mark the grainline (the central line AB). Write down the pattern name (Basic Sleeve Block), size, and date. * Ensure all lines are smooth and accurate. (Visual aid would typically be used by the teacher during demonstration for these steps.)
A. Definition of a Basic Sleeve Block: A basic sleeve block (also known as a foundation or sloper sleeve) is a plain, close-fitting, dartless pattern of a sleeve that fits the armscye (armhole) of a corresponding bodice block. It serves as the starting point for designing and creating all other sleeve styles. The block itself does not include seam allowances but is drafted precisely to the wearer's measurements, or to match an existing bodice block's armscye.
B. Importance of Accuracy in Sleeve Drafting: Precision in measuring and drafting is paramount.
Inaccurate drafting can lead to: Poor Fit: Sleeves that are too tight, too loose, or restrict movement.
Garment Distortion: Sleeves that pull, twist, or pucker at the armhole.
Unprofessional Finish: Affects the overall appearance and quality of the garment, leading to client dissatisfaction.
Material Waste: Errors in drafting often result in cutting mistakes, leading to fabric wastage.
C. Essential Body Measurements for Drafting the Basic Sleeve Block: When drafting a sleeve block, particularly one designed to fit a pre-existing bodice block, certain key measurements are crucial. If drafting from scratch, body measurements are taken. For a basic block to match a bodice block, some measurements might be derived from the bodice.
1. Sleeve Length (SL): Measured from the shoulder point (where the arm joins the shoulder) down to the desired length (e.g., elbow, wrist, or shorter).
2. Bicep Circumference (BC): Measured around the fullest part of the upper arm while the arm is bent slightly, allowing for ease of movement.
3. Wrist Circumference (WC): Measured around the wrist bone for a long sleeve. For shorter sleeves, the circumference at the desired hem length would be taken.
4. Armscye Circumference (AC): This is the measurement of the armhole curve of the bodice block the sleeve is intended to fit. It's not a direct body measurement but a pattern measurement. This is critical for matching the sleeve cap to the armhole.
5. Armscye Depth (AD): This is the vertical distance from the shoulder point to the deepest part of the armhole on the bodice block. It helps in determining the sleeve cap height.
6. Elbow Circumference (EC): (Optional, but useful for close-fitting long sleeves) Measured around the elbow with the arm bent.
D. Essential Tools for Drafting: Pattern paper (manila paper or brown paper) Pencil (HB or 2B) and Eraser Measuring tape Rulers (straight ruler, L-square/tailor's square, French curve, Hip curve) Scissors Pins (for securing pattern pieces if transferring)
E. Drafting Principles: Square Lines: Always start with a perfectly squared line as your guide.
Accurate Marking: Mark all points clearly and precisely according to measurements.
Smooth Curves: Use appropriate curve rulers (French curve) to draw smooth, flowing curves, especially for the sleeve cap.
Labeling: Label all points and lines clearly (e.g., A, B, C, Sleeve Length Line, Bicep Line, Front, Back).
Grainline: Always mark the grainline (usually parallel to the center sleeve line) on the pattern. This indicates how the pattern piece should be aligned with the fabric grain.
No Seam Allowances: Basic blocks typically do not include seam allowances. These are added when cutting the fabric for the actual garment. F. Step-by-Step Drafting of the Basic Sleeve Block (One-Piece Sleeve) This method assumes the sleeve is designed to fit an existing bodice block's armscye.
Example Measurements for Demonstration: Armscye Circumference (AC) = 42 cm (from bodice block) Armscye Depth (AD) = 19 cm (from bodice block, shoulder point to underarm) Sleeve Length (SL) = 58 cm (long sleeve) Bicep Circumference (BC) = 32 cm Wrist Circumference (WC) = 20 cm Calculations & Formulas: Sleeve Cap Height (SCH): This is often derived from the armscye depth or a fraction of the armscye circumference.
A common practical formula is: (Armscye Depth / 2) + 2.5 cm.
Using our example: SCH = (19 cm / 2) + 2.5 cm = 9.5 cm + 2.5 cm = 12 cm. Sleeve Cap Width (SCW) / Bicep Line Length: This should be slightly less than or equal to the Armscye Circumference to allow for ease. = 32 cm Wrist Circumference (WC) = 20 cm Calculations & Formulas: Sleeve Cap Height (SCH): This is often derived from the armscye depth or a fraction of the armscye circumference.
A common practical formula is: (Armscye Depth / 2) + 2.5 cm.
Using our example: SCH = (19 cm / 2) + 2.5 cm = 9.5 cm + 2.5 cm = 12 cm. Sleeve Cap Width (SCW) / Bicep Line Length: This should be slightly less than or equal to the Armscye Circumference to allow for ease.
A common calculation is: (Armscye Circumference / 2) + 2.5 to 5 cm ease for a comfortable block. Or, more simply, use the Bicep Circumference + ease. Let's aim for a Bicep Line length that gives us the desired bicep circumference. Bicep Line Length = (Bicep Circumference / 2) + 2 cm ease = (32 cm / 2) + 2 cm = 16 cm + 2 cm = 18 cm. (This is half the full bicep line width, so the full line is 36cm). Alternative for Bicep Line Length (based on Armscye): (Armscye Circumference / 2) + 1 cm ease = (42 cm / 2) + 1 cm = 21 cm + 1 cm = 22 cm. This will give a slightly fuller sleeve. Let's use the bicep measurement derived one for a closer fit. So the full bicep width line would be 36 cm.
Wrist Line Length: (Wrist Circumference / 2) + 1 cm ease = (20 cm / 2) + 1 cm = 10 cm + 1 cm = 11 cm. (Full wrist width line would be 22 cm).
Drafting Steps:
1. Draw the Central Line (Grainline): Draw a vertical line on your pattern paper. This will be the center of your sleeve and the grainline. Label the top point A. From point A, measure down the Sleeve Length (SL) and mark point B. (58 cm from A).
2. Establish the Bicep Line (Cap Depth Line): From point A, measure down the Sleeve Cap Height (SCH) and draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the central line. Label this line the Bicep Line. SCH = 12 cm. Mark point C on the central line 12 cm from
A. Draw a horizontal line through C.
3. Mark the Bicep Width: On the Bicep Line, measure half the calculated Bicep Line Length (36 cm / 2 = 18 cm) from point C to the left and to the right. Mark point D to the left (18 cm from C) and point E to the right (18 cm from C). The total length of the line DE is 36 cm.
4. Mark the Wrist Width: From point B (at the bottom of the central line), measure half the calculated Wrist Line Length (22 cm / 2 = 11 cm) to the left and to the right. Mark point F to the left (11 cm from B) and point G to the right (11 cm from B). The total length of the line FG is 22 cm.
5. Draw the Underarm Seams: Connect point D to point F with a straight line. Connect point E to point G with a straight line. These are the underarm seams.
6. Draft the Sleeve Cap Curve (Front and Back): The sleeve cap is asymmetrical, with the back cap having more ease for the shoulder blade. For the Back Sleeve Cap (Right side, from A to E): Divide the line AE into four equal parts. Mark these points. From the point closest to E (the 3/4 mark), measure up by approximately 1.5 - 2 cm. From the point closest to A (the 1/4 mark), measure down by approximately 0.5 - 1 cm. Using a French curve, draw a smooth curve from A through the 1/4 mark (dipping slightly) then rising through the 3/4 mark (bulging slightly) to meet point
E. For the Front Sleeve Cap (Left side, from A to D): Divide the line AD into four equal parts. Mark these points. From
A. Teacher Activities: Introduction and Review (10 minutes): Teacher introduces the topic: "Drafting of Basic Sleeve Block" and explains its relevance to garment construction and the local fashion industry. Teacher briefly reviews the previous lesson on bodice block drafting, specifically focusing on the armhole measurements as they relate to sleeve drafting. Teacher displays examples of various sleeve styles to show the importance of the basic block. Demonstration of Body Measurements (15 minutes): Teacher uses a student volunteer or a dress form (mannequin) to demonstrate how to accurately take the necessary body measurements: Sleeve Length, Bicep Circumference, Wrist Circumference. Teacher emphasizes correct posture and technique for measurement taking. Teacher explains how Armscye Circumference and Armscye Depth are derived from the bodice block pattern. Explanation of Key Concepts and Tools (10 minutes): Teacher explains the definition and purpose of a basic sleeve block. Teacher introduces and explains the use of drafting tools (pattern paper, rulers, French curve, pencil, etc.). Teacher explains the calculations and formulas for sleeve cap height, bicep width, and wrist width using the example measurements. Step-by-Step Drafting Demonstration (30 minutes): Teacher demonstrates the entire drafting process on a large whiteboard, chart paper, or using a projector/digital screen, following the step-by-step instructions (as detailed in Section 2F). Teacher explains each step clearly, drawing the lines and curves precisely. Teacher emphasizes the difference between the front and back sleeve cap curves. Teacher ensures visibility for all students.
Guided Practice Facilitation (20 minutes): Teacher distributes pattern paper and encourages students to start drafting along with the teacher or to immediately attempt the first guided practice question. Teacher moves around the classroom, observing students' progress, offering individualized support, and correcting common mistakes.
Q&A and Reinforcement (5 minutes): Teacher addresses student questions, clarifies misconceptions, and reinforces key learning points. Teacher provides feedback on initial drafting attempts. Assignment of Independent Practice (5 minutes): Teacher assigns independent practice questions for homework or further in-class work.
B. Student Activities: Active Listening and Note-taking: Students listen attentively to the teacher's explanations and demonstrations, taking comprehensive notes on measurements, formulas, and drafting steps.
Observation: Students closely observe the teacher's demonstrations of measurement taking and pattern drafting techniques.
Questioning: Students ask questions to clarify any areas of confusion during explanations and demonstrations.
Measurement Practice: Students may practice taking measurements on themselves or partners if time and resources permit, under teacher supervision.
Guided Drafting: Students attempt to draft the sleeve block, either following the teacher's demonstration step-by-step or working on guided practice questions, seeking assistance when needed.
Independent Practice: Students complete independent practice questions, applying the learned skills to draft a basic sleeve block.
Peer Learning: Students may discuss challenges and solutions with classmates.
Customized Traditional Attire: In Nigeria, many garments like "iro and buba," "kaftans," or "agbada" feature specific sleeve styles. Mastering basic sleeve drafting allows local tailors and designers to adapt these styles to individual client measurements, ensuring a perfect fit and preserving cultural aesthetics while meeting modern comfort demands. For example, a well-drafted basic sleeve can be easily modified into a balloon sleeve or a bell sleeve often seen in festive traditional wear.
Entrepreneurship in Garment Production: The skill of drafting sleeve blocks is fundamental for anyone looking to start a small or medium-scale tailoring or ready-to-wear business. Whether producing school uniforms for local communities, corporate wear for offices in Lagos, or fashionable dresses for boutiques in Port Harcourt, the ability to create consistently well-fitting sleeves is a key determinant of product quality and business success. This knowledge enables entrepreneurs to develop standard sizes and patterns for efficient production.
Solving Fitting Problems for Clients: Many clients approach tailors with fitting issues from off-the-rack clothing. A garment maker who understands sleeve block drafting can easily identify why a sleeve is pulling, twisting, or feeling uncomfortable (e.g., incorrect cap height, insufficient bicep ease) and make precise alterations or draft a new, corrected pattern, enhancing customer satisfaction and reputation within the community.